I'm Stuck: Auto Lock Problem (With URL for Pics!)

Jun 04, 2004 Last reply: 22 years ago 130 Replies

Either will work just fine. It isn't as an exacting science as alot of people would like to make it into.

As a side note PB Blaster is a good penetrating oil and if I'm remembering correctly has a high flash point which comes in handy when you are heating very stubborn parts and applying lubricant.

Not to mention problems if the security system key fob was on their lost keychain! In certain cases like with the VW above, it might actually be cheaper then to just pull the ignition cylinder, and use a screwdriver as the key, and have the driver buy something like a brake club so anyone can't just come along and steal the car.

I guess I am grateful then that my car uses just simple keys then, without all the security chips, etc.

except that my key does turn fine from Lock to Start and vice versa. I can reach all positions except Accessory, which is actually on the other side of Lock, not on the side On and Start are. My key sequence goes like this, clockwise:

Accessory - Lock/Off - On - Start

Another problem I just found out is that a new ignition cylinder will cost $172. I went online, and Advance Auto Parts has them for $172, and Auto zone does not have them at all. According to the Advance Auto Parts website, if I had a Cavalier *Wagon*, the new ignition cylinder would cost only $10 though, but for everything else, it is $172!! Weird. I will also check NAPA. I might have to go to a junk yard, since I think $172 is a bit much.

Thanks, I actually do have a few inspection mirrors, but never even thought of using that. For some reason I only seem to use it for inspecting brake hoses or fuel lines. My rod is not threaded though--it just has a circular indentation/crimp where it snaps in. and actually the lock does seem to be working fine now, as I posted in another post. I must have just been overly paranoid when I first posted the problem.

What is FLAPS, btw? Some local auto parts store? I've never heard of them.

thanks Ed. I do actually have back-up keys that I had cut a few years ago, but I might end up replacing the ignition cylinder anyway. If the primary key was worn though when I made the back-ups, do I need to have the key cut from code? and is this more expensive than just duplicating a key?

wont work, the electronics in the key HEAD are what matter..

some people have NO clue what they are carrying, and the dealer/salesman are not helping at all.

--Shiva--

take the key to a GOOD locksmith, WITH the car, and have a new key 'cut to code'.. before you condemn the lock cylinder.

--Shiva--

The cars he's talking about you can't. They are transponder systems which is why the keys cost so much.

you got it.. ...friendly local auto parts store --Shiva--

yes, AND were steel to boot.

--Shiva--

Yes, it does turn all the way to lock, then stops. It won't go further counter-clockwise to accessory.

I guess my mistake was going to Wal-Mart then! :) A few years ago I went there and asked the Automotive section guy if they sold "cutting oil", which I had read about in a Haynes book. He, and his co-worker had no idea what I was talking about and told me to just use WD-40.

Hi, I just did, but there was no email from you. Maybe it hasn't been delivered yet?

I guess that's good advice. But my idea was to have a new cylinder available, should I not be able to start the car again once I was able to extract the key (don't want to be stranded). But I also suppose now that I could just pull the cylinder if it were broken, and use a screwdriver to turn the ignition switch directly. I've never tried that, but I am assuming that would work in an emergency. Then I could try having the key cut from a good locksmith, or buy the cylinder then.

ah...very good. I have to bone up on my Internet acronyms. :)

Does the wheel lock?

If the "back-ups" do not turn to the Accessory position, then I would say that they also are too far out of factory specs to work correctly. Duplicating keys from worn keys just gives you worse keys. If the "back-up" keys don't work correctly, then yes I do still suggest that you get one cut from code. And yes, we charge more to decode a key and cut it back to factory specs. We then suggest that the customer put that good key away and use it for duplication purposes only.

Good luck,

Ed

actually, I just checked, and no, it does not lock. I was also wrong earlier: the key postion sequence goes:

Accessory - Lock - Off - On - Start

and not:

Accessory - Lock/Off - On - Start

like I said earlier.

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