I'm Stuck: Auto Lock Problem (With URL for Pics!)

If you have a holesaw designed for metal it will go through the door sheet metal easily. Go slowly and make sure that there are no wires, linkages, etc in the way on either side. Wear safety goggles. The chips are sharp and usually hot. A little light oil will make the saw last alot longer and the hole doesn't have to be that big to work a finger or a wrench behind the door to hold the nut or bolt head depending on which way you run it. Tape over one side of a box wrench opening will stop a nut from falling out that way when you try to start the bolt into it.

Try giving it as good a flushing as possible with WD-40, yes nice2CU I said WD-40, or your favorite light lubricant while you try to work the key out. There is lots of junk that builds up inside a lock over time. Brass powder from wear, dust and just general dirt and grime.

I saw a "biker" tee shirt that said on the back, "If you can read this, the B_____ fell off"

Prices were too low to pay the bills _and_ feed, clothe, and house his family maybe?

yeah,,, AAA paid something like $20-25 for a call, anywhere within 20 miles..24/7 (I got nosey and asked the driver one time)

--Shiva--

I actually think AAA does cover making keys if the car can't be otherwise opened or can't be towed, at least from what I remember reading from the various AAA clubs that I have been a member of. I did a search, and got a few results which would seem to imply this, at least for those clubs:

very strange. There would have to be some sort of local club to handle emergency calls for people from out of that area though who are vacationing (if they called 1-800-AAA-HELP, the national number, who would they dispatch?). Or maybe the member would have to secure their own services and just get reimbursed from their local club. I also know more and more of them are offering service shops now.

wow, seems scare enough. I think I will stick with bolts and buts then!

Thank you! I think I actually will try this first, before screwing with the ignition cylinder.

will any penetrating lubricant work, such as PB Blaster, or does it have to be WD-40?

I appreciate your advice. Does it matter what type of oil I use? Would a normal penetrating lubricant work, or something like WD-40? Or do you mean actual motor or gear oil?

PB Blaster is good, stick a towel under the lock to catch the crap that comes back out.. its a good penetrating stuff

--Shiva--

saw...

in MY area...they are getting $150 for Ford and Chrysler keys.. if all are lost, so you would be out $100..

Toyota keys run a grand.. Lexus.. VW Keys are a hundred a piece and 1 week delivery.. so, you COULD be afoot for as long as 7 days, motel bill and food.. etc... MOST places are talking in the trip charge of the $50 range that I ahve seen, so your part of the bill is still, or can be considerable. --Shiva--

The interlock is designed to prevent the steering from locking with the car in gear. If the mechanism is not properly adjusted, it will prevent the lock from turning all the way to the lock position and hence the key sticking in. This would also explain the description that the key works fine all the way to start.

I would submit that if the lock worked for 5 years after the application of the graphite it did not cause any mischief.

On Mon, 7 Jun 2004 11:08:47 -0400, you wrote: had a thought regarding the rod...

SOME VEHICLES, the lower end of the rod, where it connects to the door latch, is 'threaded', and goes into a plastic clip, that is so designed, than when the clip is closed it 'grabs' the rod, at whatever length it needs- there is 'some' adjustment in it..like a quarter inch or so.. if this has that, maybe its 'slipped' for whatever reason, and needs readjusting. or if it does have that, maybe due to outside forces, its stripped its grippers a bit, and it needs a new plastic clip on the lower end..

you need a mechanics mirror... a small mirror on a stick, like

--Shiva--

The hole in the "bottom" only will be slightly over the diameter of the "mandrel" (the part that is pulled to compress the rivet and then it snaps) - rather than being the outside diameter of the rivet.

The hole that the tip of the mandrel goes through to emerge in the guts of the riveter will typically be larger - simply because there is no reason to make it tightly fit the mandrel's shaft.

In this tricky situation, look into getting some "Keps" nuts - these are nuts with captive lockwashers, and so are much easier to handle.

I'm usually looking for a justification to buy another tool! :-)

I have seen this problem on many single sided GM ignitions. The key will not turn to the Accessory position. I have found that it is almost always worn out Primary keys. I, as a Locksmith, decode the worn out key and cut a new key on a code machine back to factory depths and spacing and it most always then turns both ways.

Thanks,

Ed

OK but unless I misread it she said it will turn to lock. I don't know I haven't seen it, but if it does turn all the way to lock then the problem is in the cylinder.

Ideally you should use a cutting oil but in practice almost anything is many times better than nothing. Use any light oil you have available.