Six foot high deadbolt

Feb 16, 2005 Last reply: 21 years ago 58 Replies

Got a call from a customer in a fairly new home. She wants a deadbolt on the cellar door. Kwikset 600 is about right (the builders used that new Taiwan Yale with the kiwsket keyway). But she wants it up about six feet, so the kids can't unlock the cellar when she doesn't want them in the cellar.



I've got a folding step stool. I've installed probably 500 deadbolts in my life -- but all of them near door knob height.



Working on a step stool with a big drill is a concern. Anyone out there done this? Any advice? I've got a few thoughts.


I've worked on stepstools, but you'll probably be more comfortable and do a better job if you have something more platform-like to stand on...

what a wimp you are. no wonder you are compelled to believe in imaginary beings like god.

If it's a problem space wise remove the hinges and lay the door on its' side, then drill the hole.

Would work nicely for the door. As to the jamb, it's a tight fit and I can't get away with surface mounting the strike. But, I'll keep that idea in mind.

I was thinking to make the cross bore with a Kwikset jig and a holesaw, so I woulnd't be fighting the big plumbers bit that throws chips.

Hmm. Don't want to make the job any more complicated. My little step stool has a nice wide step, got it at Wally World. I got the wide one cause I could sit on it. The narrow one wouldn't fit. I figure plenty of jobs (used to work for someone else) I'd be waiting for parts, and wish for something to sit on. Also easier on my feet than the narrow rungs.

Careful.... I know the secret prayer to make your computer blow up. I'm just too nice a guy to use it. My God can also give you plagues of locusts, and turn rivers to blood.

If it's an inside door and she's just trying to keep the kids out then just drill a whole for the bolt to go thru.

I dont know what a celler door looks like. We dont have them here on the Gulf Coast. I saw where Archie Bunker got locked in the celler once with the Meat-head. If it's like that then dont worry about the strike plate. Just tell the customer.

If it's an outside door then mark the bolt with chalk and grease or the ole' ladies lipstick, extend the bolt with the door closed, and drill the hole then use a one inch chisel to trim out the strike. A sharp chisel works magic.

There's also that fancy tool that comes with the Kwikset jig which you can also buy outright that when used with a hammer marks and cuts the outline in the wood jam. That tool, a few strikes with a hammer, and a 1 inch sharp chisel to clean the thing out and that's it. No problem even with my bad back.

One more thought. A simplex 7008 push button lock cost about 71 bucks plus tax.

You could put one of those in the existing hole after drilling a 3/4 inch hole 6.75 inches above the centerline of the big hole for the combo change tail and plug along with two 1/4 inch holes 1.5 inches apart on center 1/4 inch above the centerline of the 3/4 hole for the two top through screws.

Then all she would need to change the combo would be a butter knife, phillips, or flathead screwdriver, others..., and one hand to punch the new code in.

Is this door from another part of the house to the basement ? Or is this door from the basement to the outside ?

Either way you might want to investigate the building life safety code for your area, installing a lock that high up on the door may violate safety regulations if this door is considered to be one of the only exits from the basement...

Ask this woman if she wants her kids to be hurt or killed if they wind up on the locked side of this door and can't reach the thumbturn or don't have a key during a fire or carbon monoxide gas buildup ???

Is this person trying to keep people out of the basement, or keep people who might get into the basement out of the house ???

Evan, ~~formerly a manitenance man, now a college student...

I think she's trying to keep the kids out of the basement from the inside of the house. That's the way I took it.

Sadly by the time you realize you're wrong it may be too late.

If (just for the sake of argument) we're wrong, we've lost nothing.

If you're wrong, you've lost everything.

Tell you what, if you are so sure of your position, I challenge you to read a (very short) book called "More Than A carpenter". So how sure are you? Will you take me up on my challenge? I'll even send you a copy for free. What have you got to lose?

Bobby

She's got two concerns, burglars from the cellar, and also keeping the kids out of the cellar when it's not playtime.

I've installed enough deadbolts at the waist height. But this is 1 3/8 thick door, with a fussy customer.

Is this door from another part of the house to the basement ? Or is this door from the basement to the outside ? CY: The door opens into the kitchen, is at the top of the cellar stairs.

Either way you might want to investigate the building life safety code for your area, installing a lock that high up on the door may violate safety regulations if this door is considered to be one of the only exits from the basement... CY: That is a good question. I don't think it's emergency egress. I don't know if there is another way out of the cellar, though.

Ask this woman if she wants her kids to be hurt or killed if they wind up on the locked side of this door and can't reach the thumbturn or don't have a key during a fire or carbon monoxide gas buildup ??? CY: An intersting thought.

Is this person trying to keep people out of the basement, or keep people who might get into the basement out of the house ??? CY: Both. She is trying to keep burglars from getting through the cellar to th ehouse, and trying to keep the kids (about 1 and 4 at the moment) out of the cellar when it's not play time.

Evan, ~~formerly a manitenance man, now a college student...

You should never be fighting your bit. Your choice of words suggests that you need to sharpen your bit.

As far as the six foot height goes, this should not be a problem. I assume you are 5'5" or more so you should be able to drill a one inch hole within a foot of your nose without too much problem. the same goes for installing the strike plate. The mortise you cut for the strike is less than a 1/16 deep, and on a 660 it has a small plate.

I prefer not to work above chest level if I can avoid it, for reasons of both fatigue and control over the tool Your milage may vary.

I prefer not to either. But preference aside, from time to time you get stuck. If the door is removed and drilled in a more continent position, only the jam needs to be drilled with a 1 inch bit 1 inch deep.

I doubt this would be too much to control safely nor would this be much of a fatigue issue at the towering height of 6 feet from the floor.

hey pal, for the record, I believe in ALL religions, past, present and future, that way no matter what happens I'm covered.

A guy like you might have put all your eggs in one basket and it COULD be the wrong basket. ME, I have no such fears as I have explained.

Your turn.

But what do you really believe, Bill?

Now if that wasn't so sad, it would be funny.

Why not investigate that theory? Want the book? Or are you afraid of what you may discover?

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required