Metalworking content

rusty endmills and tool holders...will still work just fine after you hit em with the fine wire wheel. Unless they were stored in a bucket of salt water for a couple months.

Half the tooling I have at home, came home rusty. Shrug

But Ill not tell that to your insurance company.

Added some photos

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

I cringe every time I hear someone talk about wire brushing edged tools or see pictures on eBay of tools cleaned that way. It's impossible NOT to damage the cutting edges. Toolholders, fine. Shovels, fine. Handplane irons, saws, or end mill bits? No way.

What..they cant be resharpened????

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

If they are that rusty the edge is already gone.

Saws and planes are easy to resharpen once you learn how. I bought some replacement Fiskars pruning saw blades from Home Depot that already needed jointing and filing.

I couldn't find a cant saw file for the M teeth

but a mill file worked well enough. A rough burr in the center of the vee doesn't matter for pruning.

jsw

[ ... ]

Well ... actually, *that* computer survived, though it looks a bit ugly on the surface which was uppermost. Soot stains in the paint :-) It is an HP box with a SATA drive, and no custom boards in it yet. It is loaded with LinuxCNC and has a 19" touchscreen monitor hung on it.

2GB RAM, 2.4 GHz CPU. Linux claims to find 2 CPUs, so it must be a dual core. :-) Linux says (in dmesg) among lots of other things:

====================================================================== HP Compaq Laptop series board detected. Selecting BIOS-method for reboots. ======================================================================

even though it is a nice tower case.

What *did* die was an IBM ThinkCenter (nice small desktop box) which had Solaris 10 OS installed, and was used to interface to the Emco Maier Compact-5/CNC lathe to upload/download programs. The latest version of the software was on the disk and nowhere else, and luckily enough, the drive survived, and in another box I was able to extract the source for future use. I would like to find another of the same footprint as the ThinkCenter (which came from "PC Warehouse" -- one of the branches of PC-Retro which was closest to me. I should be able to find another at one of their other branches which are still open.

Thanks, DoN.

[ ... ]

I'm going to try the salt and vinegar approach this time for the tool holders. See how it does. That -- and the hex and square 5C collets. I've done the electrolytic, but it is a bit of a pain in mid-winter (actually, so is the salt/vinegar approach -- maybe wait until spring. :-)

The endmill milling cutters have already been paid for by the insurance company -- I did not expect them to be any good after derusting. :-) Not sure what will happen with the wheels for the horizontal machine. :-)

I don't know -- but since things are not happening, I'm tempted to pay off the mortgage (got the money right now, and what is still due is low enough), and get the insurance company to re-cut the check with them off it. :-)

Enjoy, DoN.

[ ... ]

[ ... ]

No salt water. I'll see how they clean up -- though I don't expect anything reasonable in surface finish from the end mills. New would be better for those -- or at least for the finish pass. :-)

:-)

Too late tonight to wade though it all.

Thanks, DoN.

Take 'em in the _house_, silly boy.

Hah! There ya go!

Yeah, I guess they are/can be.

I found a saw vise on eBay for $8, delivered. I just wish I'd bought the Japanese saw files when they were 1/3 the price they are now. But a small, new file isn't expensive.

OMG! Woodcraft aquired The Japan Woodworker stores!

Would the Japanese feather files work there? 4,5,6"

Fumes from either approach have some degree of acid, so I don't want to run the de-rusting near other thins which could be rusted. Thus outdoors operation is called for.

Enjoy, DoN.

What, are you going to be doing all of them at once in a pool-sized area? ;) Well, whatever you're comfortable with is good, I reckon.

Nope -- as many as I can reasonably put in a container at a time, but far from all. But in the winter, with no provisions for exhausting the vapors, I don't want to do this in my shop to start rusting other things which somehow escaped the rust earlier. And in the rest of the house -- too many computers running which would suck in the fumes and corrode printed circuit boards and heat sinks.

Besides -- until I have a place to store the cleaned ones, why hurry in trying to clean them?

For the Aloris style holders, I'll want to take them apart to avoid corrosion from dissimilar metals anyway -- especially the centered adjustable arms knurling holder -- leadscrews, setscrews, dovetail, hardened pins, and knurling rollers. :-)

Enjoy, DoN.

I don't think a covered container would put all that much acidic vapor into my house, so that probably wouldn't have entered my mind, except in passing. I have lots of over-shoebox-sized containers which I've used for soaking things, and they have loose lids.

Muriatic acid? OUTSIDE! Those chlorine tabs for the terlit corroded my inkpen in the bathroom drawer, right through the 'impervious' plastic container and cardboard box. They greened my shaver cord's plug, too. I keep only paper and the pumice stick in there with 'em nowadays.

Good point.

Absolutely.

Also, you gotta be careful of the hydrogen accmulation with electrolytic derusting - DAMHIKT

If you're generating that much hydrogen, you're using too much amperage.

People seem to think you want a full boil. Actually, you just want enough to produce a bubble or two.

In archaeological work, they use about 2-10 mA/cm^2 of surface, max. That's too slow for ordinary de-rusting, but adjust power down until there are no more than a few bubles being generated at a time. It works better, although it takes longer. And you won't generate enough hydrogen to worry about it.

Scraper

It's funny/peculiar, I'd been doing the ER for years always at around the same current levels and with the same lack of care with regard to making sparks, and using the same equipment; then one time when I made a spark there was a bright light and a (rather quiet) boom along with a whoosh of air reflecting back out of the tub. Maybe there just wasn't as much air circulation that day...

I usually derust pretty rusty stuff, don't want to have to wait days for it to be done...)

Interesting, thanks for the comments.

The readily available 19.5V Dell Latitude PA-10 and PA-12 adapters might work if you have the barrel connector.

The connector is soldered, under a removeable boot. Ignore the center wire which communicates data to the laptop. If the data IC fails the laptop won't run at full speed, though the power is still there, so maybe you can get a 'bad' one real cheap from a computer store.

A lot of printer power supplies are 19 V and would work. I may have one with the right connector/

Hmmm ... I picked up a "universal" power lump from MicroCenter, which included the right voltage, and a listing for the maker of the NetBook -- but it had a series of interchangeable barrel connectors with a 3-pin input. Apparently a resistor in the connector programs which output voltage you will get -- but there is no matching connector for the cable (otherwise I would build my own adaptor using the original cable and my own resistor to program it). I guess that I could find a female barrel connector and use that to make the adaptor needed.

Thanks, DoN.