I have been doing a bit of reading, and of course looking for some pieces of O-1 since my thoughts on punching out aluminum. One of the things I've noticed is the stuff seems to be hard to find on-line. There are several vendors selling small pieces on Ebay, but its all pretty thin or not wide enough to do the job. I am curious if pieces as thin as .250 or .375 can be used for the type of operation I described. The only thing I have to compare to is the hydraulic slug buster I use on electrical boxes. It's a heck of a lot beefier than that even for the smallest KO dies.
O-1
Jul 20, 2010
6 Replies
McMaster has 977 items matching O-1. Lots of different shapes & sizes. Enco has over a thousand sizes, but you have to search of O1 without the dash.
Enco and MSC are the places I get drill rod, flats CAN be had. You'll have to do some calculations and engineering to figure out exactly how thick you need to make punch and die, that info can be had in any number of die-making books. One thing, though, is heat treat. Once you get above the small pin-size drill rod, you're going to have to invest in some heat treating, either find somebody to do it or get some equipment. Thick stuff is beyond the propane torch and can of oil level. Usually tempering has to be done for X amount of time per inch of thickness at a specified temperature. Electric oven is the preferred method.
Stan
Ceramic kilns are quite good for the purpose, that's what I have, with a PID controller and thermocouple. Often available 2nd hand when the wire elements have aged and won't do the higher temperatures needed for some ceramics. I got mine at a good price from a local electrician that specialises in that sort of thing. Not seen any ceramics yet, but some glass, and lots of metal for normalising of cold rolled, tempering, and a few days ago drying some welding rods.
Enco and MSC are the places I get drill rod, flats CAN be had. You'll have to do some calculations and engineering to figure out exactly how thick you need to make punch and die, that info can be had in any number of die-making books. One thing, though, is heat treat. Once you get above the small pin-size drill rod, you're going to have to invest in some heat treating, either find somebody to do it or get some equipment. Thick stuff is beyond the propane torch and can of oil level. Usually tempering has to be done for X amount of time per inch of thickness at a specified temperature. Electric oven is the preferred method.
Stan
************************************ I'll disagree a bit with you Stan, I've made dies with thin O-1 parts bolted to cold roll. Some dies use 1/4" inserts and punch out 4" dia. 16ga. blanks. Also, I often harden rather big dies with a rosebud torch and a bucket of quenching oil. I only send out dies that are complex or have drastic thin and thick sections. And, I don't temper most dies at all. O-1 is easy to machine, easy to heat treat and very forgiving. I also make a lot of dies from D-2, those all get sent out.Tawm sez: "I'll disagree a bit with you Stan, I've made dies with thin O-1 parts bolted to cold roll. Some dies use 1/4" inserts and punch out 4" dia. 16ga. blanks. Also, I often harden rather big dies with a rosebud torch and a bucket of quenching oil."
Right on. I have made lots of taps and even some threading dies from O-1 without formal heat treat equipment.
Bob Swinney
I have a whole barrel full of Badger. All small sizes and shapes. If you are close by to NE pa you can root through the barrel.
Another thing that will work is just hard face and grind your die out of
4140 or even 1018 as a base metal and it will do a decent number of pieces, not that good for general production though.John
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