OT My second electric bike

Everybody has to start somewhere! Anyway, it doesn't change the fact that as much as I'm not a Clare fan (he's whacko about sky daddy), there's no doubt in my mind that he built an electric car. He's written about the subject knowledgeably, although I can't recall the details. It was probably the typical lead acid battery limited usability thing.

Readers who are interested in DIY electric vehicles will enjoy this guy's site and videos.

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Among other things, he's building Tesla style 18650 cell packs with individual fuses.

Another good one is here.

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Interesting approach.

Reply to
Beautiful William
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Why are you doubling down on your stupidity instead of doing a simple search? Here is how it's done, dipshit.

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$20snyder$20electric$20car

Lots of posts from Clare on the subject, including this one

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"I built an EV on a 75 Fiat 128 coupe platform in the late 70s, using GC batteries. 8 6 volt units provided power to a converted aircraft generator for a maximum range of 50 miles at 30MPH or 30 miles at 50 MPH. Charging cost was about $0.25 per charge then - about three times that now. Battery cost was high, and life was low.

You definitely do NOT want to use a heavy vehicle. You want the lowest rolling resistanc, lowest drag, lowest weight vehicle you can find. Hense the use of the Fiat. Chevettes, Cicics, Escorts, and Geo Metros (Suzuki) are also good candidates.

If I was doing it again, I would go for a little Kubota or Yanmar doozle with a series/parallel hybrid system. The Yanmar would run a genny to produce electricity for the batteries to run the car at low and variable speed in town - with the doozle running at maximum efficiency. When up to speed, the doozle would take over the job of driving the car, and if any energy was left over it would run the genny. If more power was required than the doozle could put out, the batteries would take over, aiding the doozle. If the motor/genny could be combined, and run through some sort of a transfer case, a relatively compact, efficient unit would result."

In addition, I know Clare from way back posting about homebuilt aircraft. He knows a lot. I only know you from your stupid and pointless header posts. And judging solely by those, you are an idiot.

Reply to
Beautiful William

Built it back in '77 It's been gone a long time now

Reply to
clare

Ansd an inductive AC only clamp meter for under $20 - so I'm still right - - -

Reply to
clare

Are you saying that you consider $30 "expensive?"

Reply to
Beautiful William

I was on the team that built these:

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--jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Used an aircraft generator for the motor - ran it through Fiat 128 transmission with no clutch - off 8 GC2H 250Ah golf cart batteries with diode switching between 24 and 48 volts,using a drum switch on the accellerator to start on 24 volts through a stainless steel ribon resistor, then short the resistor, then switch to 48 volts through the resiator, then short the reisitor, then weeken the feild current to cause the motor speed to increase from there. Fifty miles on a charge at 30MPH and 30 miles at 30 mph. I still have the motor and a few of the contactors , the main circuit breaker, and the switching diode..

It was based on a 1975 Fiat 128 Sport Coupe like this one:

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painted refrigerator white and electric blue and was called the ElectraMobile - with the name plate made up from a Buick Electra and the back part of an Oldsmobile emblem joined together.. The rear suspension was beefed up with the installation of a 128 Fiat station wagon transverse leaf to support the 6 batteries ib the trunk (in a frame installed where the gas tank and spare tire formerly resided) with the other 2 batteries under the hood up front - and the front coils shortened to bring the front end back doun to where it belonged after removing the 1300ccOHC engine and replacing it with the generator.. I used a 3 phase magnetic trip breaker installed in place of the console at the overload protection / emergency disconnect device - the whole thing was wired with welding cable except the inter-battery connections that were made of several thicknesses of copper strips.

Charging was accomplished with the 2 banks of batteries in parallel using the charger from a Sebring Vanguard UrbaCar with a hydro meter converted to run off 120 volts by using a 120/240 transformer to supply the voltage measurement component for the Kwh meter..

Full charge took about 8 hours on a 15 amp circuit. Back in the day,a full charge cost just over $0.25. At today's peak rates it would be closer to $3.50 (about 7KwH)

I don't have any digital pictures to post but one day I'll dig out the old slides and digitize one and put ir on my web site.

Reply to
clare

And unlike many others on these lists - I've never posted under anything but my true name - no nym shifting.

Reply to
clare

Read what I wrote. I said "more expensive" - and if you want a QUALITY inductive clamp meter and a QUALITY hall effect meter, you don't get them for 20 and 30 bucks. ( a Fluke is still around $300 and up)

Many of the units advertized as AC/DC clamp on multimeters on EBAY are in fact DC only - like the Extech M200 and the BM801 which sell forn under $50.

Easy to tell of your clampmeter will read DC. If the ends of the clamp have bare metal showing and the metal cores meet when closed it is AC only. If the ends of the clamp have a plastic coating on them, you almost certainly have a hall effect clamp meter that will read DC (Also often advertized as "true rms" ammeters.

I have an old l DC clAMPmeter around here somewhere that was sold by MAC or Snap-on or one of those automotive tool companies a good number of years back that needed to be carefully calibrated before every use, and if you turned it 90 degrees horizontally, the reading shanged by up to 30%. - and that sucker was expensive even in 2016 dollars!!!!

I might have actually pitched it in one of my last clean-ups since it was just about useless anyway. They have gotten cheaper and better over the years, for sure.

Reply to
clare

Pretty much a fancy enclosed electric wheel-chair - but still too bad it was never commercialized.

Reply to
clare

On Sun, 12 Jun 2016 09:39:37 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca Gave us:

Absolutely. You want me to post photos?

Reply to
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno

Just google claresnyder electric fiat 128 and you will get quite a few hits, including this one from 1996 -----

THe question of horsepower requirement is not a simple one. Tire rolling resistance itself is not a cut and dried calculation, and it is one of the simpler ones. The rolling resistance drops dramaticly with warm-up, and increases with speed and load. The amount of tread left on the tire makes a difference, as does the tire construction. Steel radials have the lowest RR, and increase the least with speed.Up to about 40MPH, the RR coefficient stays about consta/nt with radial and bias/belted tires. The radial runs about .012, with the bias belted about .014. A bias tire starts at about .013, but starts to rise immediately. By 70MPH, the Bias tire has reached almost .02. The Bias Belted is almost .016, and the radial is almost .014

The effect of warmup is also extensive, with a cold tire taking about 1.4 times as much as a tire having run 20 miles under load (reached 100F operating temp and increased pressure of 5PSI)

Load increases the rolling resistance in a linear fashion On a new bias tire, the Crr of .012 at a light load .ncreases to .014 at 20% loa/d, .016 at 40%, .020 at 60%, .022 at 80%, and .024 at 100%. This is at full rated pressure. With worn tread, this increase is less than half.

Brake drag also comes into the picture, Disk brakes and self adjusting drum brakes increase the drag. With the GM X car, they reduced disk brake drag from 2.0 ft.lb to 0.5 ft lb drag, according to GM engineers, but real world testing showed drag of about 1.5 ft lb. Factored with the radius of the wheel, etc, this amounts to 1.7 lbs of rolling resistance per brake, or an increase in CRR of .002 to .004 for vehicles with disk brakes. Self adjusting drums are about equal, and manually adjusted brakes can be less than.half, or .001 to .002 CRR increase.

Alignment adds to the resistance as well, with a well set up vehicle adding a CRR of roughly .001

Aero drag has fewer variables. If you know the CD, and the frontal area, Aero Drag = CD X A (in sq ft) X (mph)^2/391

The CD of a ford pinto was about .5, with 19.4 sq ft frontal area. A chevette was .502 and 18.99 The Rabbit was .459 and 19.59. The beetle was .458, and less than 19 sq ft.,

Aero drag for winds has to be added to this. iThe factor Kw is calculated as (0.98(W/V)^2 + 0.63 (W/V)) CD(M)/CD -0.40(W/V)

W= average wind speed,V= vehicle speed Cd(m) is the maximum CD for any yaw angle relative to the wind, This is typically about 1.4 for a sedan, 1.2 for wagons and hatchbacks, and about 1.6 for more slender vehicles. Climbing and accelleration requirements are dependent almost totally on weight. For acceleration,, the formula is Faccel=Kr x gvw x a/21.94 = gvw x Ka where a=accel in mph/sec, and Kr accounts for inertia of rotating masses. Kr=1 + (0.04 + 0.0025 i^2) for an internal combustion engined car. The .04 reflects the inertia of wheels and tires,, whilke the .0025 reflects the rotating engine and driveline parts that rotate at i times the speed of the wheels (rear drive ratio) This usually works out to about 1.06 to 1.2

Climbing power , or Fclimb= gvw X Kc. The Kc is roughly equal to percent grade, for all intents and purposes.

These calculations tell you what TRACTIVE FORCE is required. This still has to be converted to horsepower.

This information was extrapalated from the book EV Engineering Guidebook: EV conversions for the 80's by Paul R Shipps, of 3E Vehicles, Box 19409, San Diego Ca 92119.

There is a lot more in the book. See if it is still available if you are interested.

I got involved in this when I electrified a '75 Fiat 128L coupe a number of years back. 8 HP was adequate around town. (electric motor

- high torque at low RPM)

Clare Snyder, Class "A" Licenced Auto Mechanic Recycled as a Computer Solution Provider Waterloo, Ontario, Canada

Reply to
clare

You got me Gunner!! I DID mean AC only.

Reply to
clare

  1. You didn't ride any motorcycle at 264 mph. If you knew anything about motorcycles, you would have known better than to make such a brainddead claim.
  2. Your IQ stories are self busting on account of them all being different, and you being and undeniably stupid failure.
  3. Your property tales are busted by the property records. And your explanation that handshake deals aren't recorded is more pathological lying.
  4. You can't be both in and out of Mensa. You can't be a cop for different numbers of year every time you tell the story. It's obvious you make this stuff up as you go along. You are an incompetent liar. Which is why nobody believes you're hobnobbing with the hoi polloi.
Reply to
12 Hour Store

It was a technology demonstrator. Self-balancing isn't the answer to everything but it does provide remarkable agility from an extremely simple chassis, like the Wowwee Miposaur robot.

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No steering, no brakes, just two rigidly mounted motors and electronics.

This is the next model:

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--jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

It's YOUR idea. Your story is that you're broke now because the economy is bad. But you've always been broke regardless of the ups and downs of the economy. You are busted by your lien records, which became public because you keep saying you're adding names to a death list.

Reply to
12 Hour Store

Cite! LOL

Reply to
12 Hour Store

"At the moment." Bwahahaha! Your bank account is empty a lot, which is obvious from looking at your failure to pay a couple hundred a year in property taxes, decade after decade.

Reply to
12 Hour Store

On Sun, 12 Jun 2016 07:17:14 -0700, Frogs Gave us:

The Fluke i410 in this case. I guess I would have to post a link for these low IQ dolts though, because they apparently lack the aptitude to even perform a simple web search.

Reply to
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno

The current clamp alone is over $300, and then you still need the "meter" for it - and the recommended A3002FC is another $178. Not exactly what I would call cheap. And that's only 400 amps. The

1000 amp unit is over $500 (i1010)

Compared to 20 years ago? Cheaper - but still not cheap.

Reply to
clare

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