Airbrush advice

I have been using a Badger canned Propel cheapie and want to step up to a double action compressor model. I have looked at the Paasche VL and
the Badger 150-IL. Which of these would you recommend for railroad modelling? Or are they pretty much equal in operation?
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I'd get the compressor and a Paasche H model. It will do anything you want. I've use one for over 30 yrs and countless models and it is still going strong.

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I have more airbrushes than I will ever use, and of the lot, the two that I like best for model railroad work are the Paasche H and the Paasche VL. Of those two, I like the single action H the most.
http://www.dixieart.com / http://www.dixieart.com/HSet.html http://www.dixieart.com/PaascheVL.html http://www.dixieart.com/VLParts.html
There is nothing wrong with the VL, but it is more than you need to do an outstanding paint job. It is also more difficult to master and requires more maintenance. It is also more difficult to clean and service after use. The H has fewer parts, costs less, and will give a perfectly fine paint job with minimal time invested in developing your technique. It is also a good deal more robust than the VL and will survive accidents and mistreatment much better than the more delicate VL. Restoring a VL that has had paint harden inside is a daunting task. With an H, you just soak it overnight in some acetone, run a Dill's pipe cleaner through the nozzle, and you're back in business..........Pssssssssssssssst.
Froggy, snipped-for-privacy@thepond.com
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On 5/8/05 9:38 AM, in article snipped-for-privacy@news.east.earthlink.net,

Amen! Tried a lot, and the Paasche are the ones I come back to.
You don't need a 10 gallon tank, unless you just get a killer deal on it. A smaller tank does just fine; I use a 10 gal for my air tools, and a 2 gallon "pancake" for my airbrushing.
--
Brian Ehni



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If you're doing fine work, a double action brush will help otherwise, if you're just doing car and loco painting, the single action brush will do fine. Better is to get a compressor and put a small (about 1/2 gallon or so) tank inline with the compressor. Even better yet would be a larger compressor (the regular 100psi kind) and a pressure reducet to allow you to control the airflow to what works best with the paint. I ended up with a CO2 tank and pressure reducer and find that I often run about 10psi with some paints while others can be up to about 25lb. The CO2 tank is a bit of a bother as I have to regularly get it refilled and thus don't recommend going that way. As to which brush you should get, that is something that you'll eventually have to make on your own as feel of the airbrush is more important than the actual value of either brush. There are niggles with anything mechanical and, while I'll use one, you may be more comfortable with the other. Personally, I've found the old single action Binks airbrush to be just fine for painting cars and locos.
-- Why isn't there an Ozone Hole at the NORTH Pole?
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inline with the compressor.< Actually this might really be a room question. I would get at least a 10 gal. tank. HF sells one this size for $100+. You can probably get a compressor into the family budget without even mentioning the railroad usage. Be creative! A compressor can be used for many things around the house, including painting the house<VBG>.
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I have a 20 gallon compressor in the shop, but that is a bit overkill for an airbrush. I am considering the Paasche D-500 or the Badger 180-11 compressor.
Jon Miller wrote:

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Running a 1/2" black iron pipe to the basement from the shop would be what I'd do. Do make sure that you have a water seperator on the line and you will also want to run it at a slope so that you have a low spot where you can put in a vent for the water. A tee with a short section of pipe and an endcap that has a quarter turn valve in it will do perfectly. I'll note that a large compressor will provide air for a long time without firing up for a little airbrush.
-- Why isn't there an Ozone Hole at the NORTH Pole?
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Does anyone use a portable air tank filled from a larger compressor? I have a large compressor in the garage, but it is much too heavy to tote up and down the basement stairs to the trains.
I just bought my first airbrush and it is easy to see that canned propellant is not a satisfactory answer. I was thinking of a portable tank equipped with a pressure regulator I could fill in the garage and take downstairs.
--
===========================================================
Norman Morgan <> http://www.norm-morgan.com
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Norman Morgan wrote:

I "sort of" do that. My 10 gallon compressor is in the basement near the trains. But when it runs, you can hear it throughout the entire house. So what I do is run it ahead of time, when it's less disruptive. When it fills and shuts off, I unplug it, and I have a full tank to use whenever (for example, after the kids go to bed).
I'd imagine that a portable tank with a regulator would yield similar results. Of course, it's duration of course would depend on it's size, the pressure you're spraying at, etc.

Amen!!
HTH, Stevert
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On Mon, 09 May 2005 14:05:05 -0000, Norman Morgan

Yep. Though I am not the painter that some folks are, a five-gallon portable tank with a regulator/moisture trap will do fine for one or two cars at a time. Put the regulator on a quick-connect, and it can go on the big compressor for large jobs if necessary, and the portable tank can fill a tire, too...
CL
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Just noticed the Millenium model with the cutaway side. Feels nice, but I'm wondering how sturdy it will be with the cutaway surely weakening the handle. Anyone use this model?
harrym wrote:

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Hi.
Before jumping off the deep end, it might be advisable to understand the operations of air brushes and their interaction with accessories: air supplies, spray booths and coatings etc. Price and eye appeal are not good indicators.
First determine what your requirements are. Examine the literature available. Although well intentioned, most advice is based on the giver's personal opinion. Analise them all and decide for yourself. Armed with knowledge, a wise choice may be made.
Most of the aspects are covered in depth on my site.
For more details with methods and extensive discussion of problems and solutions, see first site below under coatings.
Hope this helps.
Thank you,
Budb
Author of:
MODELRAILROAD TECHNICAL INFORMATION http://www.geocities.com/budb3 /
PROTOTYPE TECHNICAL INFO FOR MODELRAILROADERS (Revised. New address) http://www.geocities.com/budb3/pindex
Moderator of: MR TECHNICAL HELP GROUP http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mrtechhelp
COUPLER HELP GROUP http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mrcouplers
harrym wrote:

to
and
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Go with Paasche...better built, easier to take apart to clean, and easier to find parts. Are you painting with acrylics or solvents?...If you are using acrylics go for an internal mix. Also a single action airbrush is fine for most of the painting done in model rring.
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