Station Terminus

Me yet again!! Anyone point me in the direction of a manufacturer of station terminus. I built the Superquick model but it is not good enough! I plan to put it at
the end of the track ala a London Terminus. Please let me know Internet suppliers as I am stuck here in the USA. I am modeling Southern BR approx late 50's in 4mm Ta Rob
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Me yet again!! Anyone point me in the direction of a manufacturer of station terminus. I built the Superquick model but it is not good enough! I plan to put it at the end of the track ala a London Terminus. Please let me know Internet suppliers as I am stuck here in the USA. I am modeling Southern BR approx late 50's in 4mm Ta Rob
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If you're modelling BR(S), why don't you join Yahoo Groups SEmG (Southern E mail Group)?
Lots of very knowledgeable people there.
-- Cheers Roger T.
http://www.highspeedplus.com/~rogertra / Home of the Great Eastern Railway
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Thanks for the compliments Rob. Too bad I don't model BR(S) anymore. :-)
But at least now it's mainly steam.
-- Cheers Roger T.
http://www.highspeedplus.com/~rogertra / Home of the Great Eastern Railway
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Peco.
Rob wrote:

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And Hornby.
--
Martin S.

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"Gregory Procter" wrote

And what terminus station do Peco manufacture?
The Hornby terminus is *extremely* toy like.
John.
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And what terminus station do Peco manufacture?

John, I am gobsmacked at this.... Peco do an all over roof like the Hornby one, which could be used for a SR style terminus station....
Or where you referring to the building and we have gotten cross purposes?
Yes the Hornby one is toylike, but it looks a lot better with plastikard coverings! -- Andy Sollis CVMRD http://www.cvmrd.freeserve.co.uk - Home of the Churnet Valley Model Railway Department Remove the Standard Tank from E-mail to reply
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"CVMRD" wrote

An overall roof is a long way from a terminal station. As the original enquirer was saying that the Superquick station wasn't suitable, I assume (rightly I think) that he was looking for a complete terminal station.
John.
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On Sun, 10 Aug 2003 09:28:17 +0100, "John Turner"

They used to do an overall roof wide enough for two tracks and two platforms, these could be used end to end and/or side by side I seem to remember - For the building across the end one of the Continental stations might do, Victorial railway terminus architecture had a degree of consistency. You could of course build it yourself, which also means the roof itself could be removable for access (from memory this would take some fettling with the Peco kit. If you had the frames for under the curved roof etched you could sell the surplus - heat and curve clear plasticardon a card former for the roof sections and cover the bottom third and top third with corrugated card (Slaters) heated and curved on the same former. Add a planked walkway along the lower edge of the resulting 'windows' with wooden access steps following the curve of the roof. At Manchester Pic these had wooden handrails until very recently (may have now been replaced with metal) Add vertical strips of plastic or paper to form the 'framing' on the roof windows at about four foot spacing. Side walls from foam board covered in brick paper. Add a strip anong the bottom of the walls and vertical strips at intervals to give it some depth. Some vents along the ridge of the roof made from alternating wide/narrow strips of thin wood or 40-60 thou plasticard with a 'peaked roof' would provide a handle for when you need to remove the overall roof for access (track cleaning, sorting out locked couplings etc). Windows in the sides from Downsglaze or commercial 3-d mouldings (in N I have used the windows from the Peco engine shed, the wall moulding can be used as a template from marking up the new walls. This kit also comes with some extra bits such as spare big doors and roof vents, handy that) Horizontal transverse beams at intervals wide enough to get your hand inside (plastruct) hold the walls in alignment, the roof just rests on top for access. Not expensive and you get one that fits your space.
If you have a computer and something ike paint shop pro or photoshop. . .
I have made brick paper by taking a photo of some brickwork and scanning this in to get the range of colouring. I then applied a gausian blur to loose the faint lines of the mortar. Create a new picture that's A4 size (or letter if using US size paper) and copy the image across, tiling to fill the new image. You now have a page side of 'brickwork dapple' colour. Make a brickwork grid of white lines on any other coloured background then make that background transparent and save it as a gif file. This is then cut and pasted over the dappled brickwork image, giving nice clean mortar lines. Print on a laser printer, if it comesout rather dark lighten the image and repeat. If the mortar llines are the wrong size re-scale them and re-apply to the dappled area. Wash over with diluted water colour, I use mainly burnt sienna with a touch of burnt umber mixed in on the edge of the pallet. When dry the paper is crinkled - sandwich oit between two sheets of brown paper and iron flat. DO NOT IRON WITHOUT THE PAPER IF USING A LASER AS THE TONER MELTS ONTO THE IRON _ VERY MESSY (dont ask how I know this).
The result is not perfect but when I couldn't find any N Gauge paper it served well enough.
HTH
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Exactly, Ill second that. I like the look of the station building on Aug Railway Modeller, but it is obviously scratch built. Anyone know different. 'TIA Rob

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Nice.. Can someone make me one and mail it to Atlanta please.... :-)

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