Me yet again!!
Anyone point me in the direction of a manufacturer of station terminus. I
built the Superquick model but it is not good enough! I plan to put it at
the end of the track ala a London Terminus. Please let me know Internet
suppliers as I am stuck here in the USA. I am modeling Southern BR approx
late 50's in 4mm
If you're modelling BR(S), why don't you join Yahoo Groups SEmG (Southern E
Lots of very knowledgeable people there.
Home of the Great Eastern Railway
Thanks for the compliments Rob. Too bad I don't model BR(S) anymore. :-)
But at least now it's mainly steam.
Home of the Great Eastern Railway
John, I am gobsmacked at this.... Peco do an all over roof like the Hornby
one, which could be used for a SR style terminus station....
Or where you referring to the building and we have gotten cross purposes?
Yes the Hornby one is toylike, but it looks a lot better with plastikard
http://www.cvmrd.freeserve.co.uk - Home of the Churnet Valley Model Railway
Remove the Standard Tank from E-mail to reply
An overall roof is a long way from a terminal station. As the original
enquirer was saying that the Superquick station wasn't suitable, I assume
(rightly I think) that he was looking for a complete terminal station.
They used to do an overall roof wide enough for two tracks and two
platforms, these could be used end to end and/or side by side I seem
to remember - For the building across the end one of the Continental
stations might do, Victorial railway terminus architecture had a
degree of consistency. You could of course build it yourself, which
also means the roof itself could be removable for access (from memory
this would take some fettling with the Peco kit.
If you had the frames for under the curved roof etched you could sell
the surplus - heat and curve clear plasticardon a card former for the
roof sections and cover the bottom third and top third with corrugated
card (Slaters) heated and curved on the same former. Add a planked
walkway along the lower edge of the resulting 'windows' with wooden
access steps following the curve of the roof. At Manchester Pic these
had wooden handrails until very recently (may have now been replaced
with metal) Add vertical strips of plastic or paper to form the
'framing' on the roof windows at about four foot spacing.
Side walls from foam board covered in brick paper. Add a strip anong
the bottom of the walls and vertical strips at intervals to give it
Some vents along the ridge of the roof made from alternating
wide/narrow strips of thin wood or 40-60 thou plasticard with a
'peaked roof' would provide a handle for when you need to remove the
overall roof for access (track cleaning, sorting out locked couplings
Windows in the sides from Downsglaze or commercial 3-d mouldings (in N
I have used the windows from the Peco engine shed, the wall moulding
can be used as a template from marking up the new walls. This kit
also comes with some extra bits such as spare big doors and roof
vents, handy that)
Horizontal transverse beams at intervals wide enough to get your hand
inside (plastruct) hold the walls in alignment, the roof just rests on
top for access.
Not expensive and you get one that fits your space.
If you have a computer and something ike paint shop pro or photoshop.
I have made brick paper by taking a photo of some brickwork and
scanning this in to get the range of colouring. I then applied a
gausian blur to loose the faint lines of the mortar. Create a new
picture that's A4 size (or letter if using US size paper) and copy the
image across, tiling to fill the new image. You now have a page side
of 'brickwork dapple' colour.
Make a brickwork grid of white lines on any other coloured background
then make that background transparent and save it as a gif file. This
is then cut and pasted over the dappled brickwork image, giving nice
clean mortar lines. Print on a laser printer, if it comesout rather
dark lighten the image and repeat. If the mortar llines are the wrong
size re-scale them and re-apply to the dappled area.
Wash over with diluted water colour, I use mainly burnt sienna with a
touch of burnt umber mixed in on the edge of the pallet. When dry the
paper is crinkled - sandwich oit between two sheets of brown paper and
iron flat. DO NOT IRON WITHOUT THE PAPER IF USING A LASER AS THE
TONER MELTS ONTO THE IRON _ VERY MESSY (dont ask how I know this).
The result is not perfect but when I couldn't find any N Gauge paper
it served well enough.
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