Table clamp, fence clamp, or workpiece clamp.
The photo looks like the part has some rust on it but is otherwise in
good condition. Disassemble, dump the part in some vinegar to loosen
the rust, wire brush whatever rust is left, and apply some rust
reformer, bluing, or anti-rust coating. There are videos detailing
the rust removal and restoration process of various shop machines on
Also, this series might be of interest:
"Restoring a Radial Arm Saw"
< https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4lg1hYf33k < https://www.youtube.com/watch?v ĚxZJ2We0z4> < https://www.youtube.com/watch?v3uHPuc8oR4
Yes, that is the good part, the other one is bad, as in, missing the
rotating washer on the end. I managed to get find a washer of near
similar shape, and then the hole actually shrink to stay on the
thumbscrew when I got to match the original shape. Quite a lucky
sequence of events.
I also found some beam clamps that will make a heavy duty table clamp,
if I decide to go that far.
This video and part 2 are well done and did a lot as far as helping me
see what I wanted to do as to rebuilding the table.
Methinks you'll find that the stock cone washer is somewhat harder
than the common flat washer. The idea is to not deform the washer
when overtightening the screw. Another possible will be to use the
adjusting screw and pad from an adjustable height steel work table:
https://images.globalindustrial.com/images/275x275/PG83051.jpg>I also found some beam clamps that will make a heavy duty table clamp,
My father had a Craftsman radial arm saw in the garage during the
1960's. After a few incidents, he decided that I should not be
allowed to use it because it was inherently dangerous. It had a rod
attached to the motor, with a swivel fork arrangement at the tip, that
was intended to prevent the workpiece from flying back into the
operators face due to "kickback". It wasn't of much use for crosscut
work, but was useful for ripping, where the motor and blade were
rotated 90 degrees and the work could not be clamped to the table and
the anti-kickback kludge was useless. Kinda like an inverted table
saw. After a few board launches, he bought a real table saw.
Attaching the optional drill chuck to the motor and trying to use it
with a fly cutter turned out to be equally dangerous.
Jeff Liebermann email@example.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Yes, I think you are correct on the new cone deforming, my previous
fix was just a piece 1/16" aluminum between the wood and the end of the
thumbscrew. It worked fine.
I was on a carpentry forum looking for answers and they had quite a
discussion about the dangers of Radial Arm Saws. To the point some said
throw it out.
I find it a very useful tool, for certain jobs and don't want to give
it up. Right now, all I want it for is to cut siding and soffit, I have
snips, miter saw, skilsaw, a siding knife and a table saw, but the
easiest to use for cutting siding is a Radial arm saw. (blade turned
backwards. If I had a sliding miter saw that would be my choice, but I
New information to me!!!!
One thing I did learn on the saw forum was that for Radial arm saws you
want a Negative hook angle tooth. A positive hook angle tooth is, as
they describe it, grabby.
Again forceful comments about the correct hook blade.
You all will be relieved to know,:-) my part problem is solved. While
talking with a buddy about replacing the tabletop on my RAS, he said I
have at tabletop that I took off of my RAS, He has a Craftsman that had
a safety recall, Craftsman sent him a new table, table brackets and new
So, when I picked up the tabletop, he said and look here, he had the
brackets with the table clamps I needed, and they were 1/4" not the
feeble 3/16" ones I have. Now If I can just get it aligned.
I find table saws are scary dangerous. They are much more likely to
kick the wood back at you. If it's top of the line then the guard is
worth something, on cheap models I think the cheapie ass guard makes
Without a guard on them you just have this exposed blade sticking up
and that's not good in any situation.
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