Can anyone ID this Detroit Diesel?

I can't see enough detail to tell, but it's about the size of a 6V51

(if so, and it's not too worn out, that's a good motor)

LLoyd

I am defrosting it now.

Cool. I will look closer tonight, yesterday it was all covered with snow.

OK, thanks. I will keep your message and will try to look at the engine again tonight.

I found some manuals and I put them on my website, so that search engines can find them, so that people can get them for free.

Steve, I would loathe to do any deep rebuild. I have never been good at that sort of thing. I will see if it I can be brought to life quickly. At this point, I want to simply understand its operation.

One more thing. I had to drag this engine with a chain 8 feet and that was a major mistake. The bottom pan became slightly busted. Not in a huge way, but I am pretty sure that I need to pull it from under the engine, fix with a sledge and weld any holes. It seems to have developed a small leak.

Any thoughts on this?

Yes, I will try. I think that I would need to pull the power transmission clutch/pulley assembly offthe end bell for this, but that would be a good thing anyway.

I did this with a Cummins L423D.

i

Iggy, I wouldn't put those manuals on your site. You will be violating copyright laws. Let others do that.

Pulling that pan is easy if you have a sturdy engine stand. Another way would be a chain fall suspending the whole engine. There will be two lift tangs mounted on the head and flywheel housing. Pay close attention to the oil pump pickup and make sure you didn't damage that. Check for sludge build up. This will tell a story. Also, while you are there, pull the front cylinder con rod cap and check the bearing. Do the same for the rear main. keep it really, really clean. I highly suggest you power wash the motor BEFORE disassembly takes place. Remember DDAs do not like multi-grade oil. You must use a straight 30wt diesel oil. Multi-grade oils do not have sufficient shear strength. This is in the manual. Steve

PS Gas motors have Bell Housings. Diesels have Flywheel Housings and they conform to an industry standard SAE #1, #2, #3 etc.

Karl, this is true for 4 cycle diesel engines and diesel engines that HAVE injector Pumps. DD 53 and 71 Series diesels are 2 cycle and do NOT have Injector Pumps, they have a common fuel Rail, and individual Injectors, that are feed off the common fuel Rail at low pressure. Also, it is not uncommon for a very OLD DD 53 or 71 that has a lot of wear, to suck LubeOil up thru the Piston Rings, and run away. the only way to shut them down in run away condition, is to shut off the Air going into the blower, PERIOD. OR you can just let it go until it EXPLODES, violently, with metal parts flying everywhere. Been there, seen that....

Steve, thanks for your words of wisdom. Regarding copyright, I am a member of the Manual Liberation Front, whose goal is to liberate old manuals that are trapped in dirty hands of greedy manual CD sellers and web spammers, and make them freely available to the public. Feel free to copy and share.

Here's a little update.

THE MOTOR TURNS OVER EASILY WHEN TURNED WITH A PIPE WRENCH.

That alone is good news, if that was not the case, I would be heading with it to a scrap yard tomorrow.

Here's a web page that I set up with the info on the motor and many more new pictures:

Serial and Model Numbers

On Block: 2 CWC-5125423-133 Type SW-VS IDLE 550 MIN Governor 5___72

5138851

Any comments on the motor? Any guess as to the year?

Thanks!

Life is becoming fun again!

i

For those who do not know, Bruce is the awesome moderator of SmokStak, a great resource for diesel engine and generator owners.

The runaway is indeed a fearsome phenomenon, and that was why I asked about air supply shutoff.

i

It cranks...

Where is the starting fluid...

It ALMOST starts with starting fluid...

Where is the battery charger

i

It starts and then dies...

Where is my fuel bottle and PVC lines...

OK, it runs. I ran it for no more than 1-2 seconds. There are many reasons.

1) it is in an enclosed trailer, though of course, I lifted off the rear flap. Even after those 2 seconds, after stopping, I had to get out of the trailer right away, to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning. 2) As you remember, I dragged the engine at the auction site with a chain for 6-8 feet, and that slightly busted the bottom pan. So I am pretty sure that I need to pull the pan down, clean it, straighten it and weld any holes, and then properly oil it. 3) I am still not sure if everything functions well, such as cooling system or whatnot.

I think that if after taking care of oil pan and adding oil, and providing a very stable base for it, I can run it for, say, 10 seconds, I will get it out of the trailer onto a shop cart so that I could run it outside and then sell.

At this point I have a few questions.

*) How can I practically pipe exhaust out on the cheap *) How high do I need to raise it in order to get the bottom pan from underneath it? 4 inches enough? *) I am still not sure what is the proper way to stop this engine. So far it stops when I cease cranking. I have a block of wood with a rag wrapped around it, that I can instantly use to block the intake. But I wonder if there is a lever to do it.

I've heard WD40 is a better for starting than ether. You shouldn't need it anyway after the lines are all filled up. In a lot of engines, air in the line is a major headache and makes you bleed the whole mess.

mike

I am aware of air in the lines issue, it once made me very frustrated. Most diesels, hopefully this one too, quickly clear that once they start running. They suck in a lot more fuel than they use, and return the unused fuel back.

i

Oh, and this DD diesel is meant to be started with ether.

i

Iggy, The info you need is on the build plate. The decode of that can be found in the first section of manual #1. Unfortunately, it appears missing. What I do know is that it is a Fan to Flywheel industrial engine designed to drive pumps, conveyer belt systems, rock crushers or the like. It has a PTO, a limiting speed governor and I think an SAE #3 flywheel housing. I did also notice that it is equipped with an intake clapper, so you don't need a pillow nearby when you start it. I cannot tell if has 2 or 4 valve head. This can be determined when you remove the valve cover. Send me a picture of that. What are you going to do with it? It can pull a 20 KVA alternator with a 2 valve head and a 30 KVA with a 4 valve head. As far as age, my best guess is early 70s. Late models have aluminum valve covers and smaller secondary counter balance pulleys on the cam and countershaft. There is no turbo. Steve

Oops. Where should it be located?

Steve, sorry for being dumb, I am reading the manual now, but where is that clapper?

Will do.

I will soon take off the bottom pan and the top cover, I will take some pictures.

i

On the side of the valve cover. There is a slot that the ID plate slides into. It appears empty in the photo.

It bolts on top of the blower with 4 3/8-16 bolts. Follow the taped inlet pipe to the blower. You can't miss it. The spring and trip mechanism is on the side of the casting.

It is not empty, I looked at it with a good light and found out the build number and the serial.

5033-7001 3D-97891

According to

This is a DD 353, built in 1972.

Per the first number, it is a 3 cylinder 53 engine, fan-to-flywheel industrial, RC arrangement, "N" engine (whatever this means), starter opposite blower.

Since it is younger than me (1971), I consider it to be a relatively new engine.

to the blower. You can't miss it. The spring and

Ignoramus4253 fired this volley in news:GYOdncB76MXB8IjQnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

So, it's basically a "half brother" (Hah!) to the 651.

Neat. We ran 651s on PBR and 1271s on PCFs over in 'Nam.

LLoyd

Lloyd, Those where 6-53Ts on the PBRs 400 BHP ea. You could find aluminum versions of that motor on some APCs and those are very rare. You will note that your statement about the V53s being the big brother of the in-line 53s is very true. Many of the parts are interchangeable, including the cylinder heads. What is very unique about the 53T motors is that they use a blow through blower, as the 53 series blowers use straight rotors, as apposed to the other DDA families that use twisted rotors. When the turbo boost exceeded 10 PSI, that would trigger a hydraulic valve that used lube oil pressure to shift an internal bar in the rotor against an internal spring. Once actuated, the shifted bar uncovered a series of cross drilled holes in the rotors. DD stated that relieving the blower load in that fashion saved 10-15 HP at the flywheel. All in all, the DDAs were very high tech motors and way ahead of their time. As you can tell, I am a real fan of the DDAs. Steve