Kurt vise swivel attachment question

That round thing in the center is a pin that fits a hole in the bottom of your vise. There is a tee slot groove milled around the diameter of the base that matches up with the tee slot holes in your vise.

Wes

-- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

Where did you get it Tom, at Production Tool or JTS Machinery? I have the 4" vise from JTS and like it a lot also.

The answer to your question: I do keep the swivel under the vise.

The only downside for me is that I loose the height of the swivel between the quill and the table. It has gotten in the way a couple of times. Then I take the whole thing off and install the old bridgeport vise.

Pete Stanaitis

--------------------- Tom Gardner wrote:

Latch Supply on St.Clair.

I got a Chinese Kurk knock-off some years ago, it came with the swivel. The first cut I made with it, the vise was vibrating like crazy. So, I took off the swivel, bolted the vise directly to the table, and haven't used it since. Unless you will always make light cuts with the swivel, you will not be very happy with it at all. I'm not talking about a slight vibration, I could SEE the vise rocking from side to side! Maybe the Kurt is stiffer in some way, but I doubt it is a great improvement on the knock-off, as cast iron is fairly cheap.

Jon

I never notice any of this vibration with my Kurt swivel. What kind of cuts do you take? I will often take a 40 thou full cut with a 1 1/2" face mill.

Pete Stanaitis.

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I sold a bunch of these and yes, something like that should fit. The vise has a hole in the bottom in the middle to go over the protruding round piece in the base.

Even better are swiveling and tilting vises. I have one by Palmgren, a

6" vise that swivels on a round base (like the one shown) and also tilts to up to 45 degrees. It is very solid and much more so than the chinese tilting imports. i

Neat, a place I wasn't aware of. What all do they have there?

A "Kurk" -- they couldn't even copy the name right? :-)

Hmm ... the things which matter here:

1) The pin allows the vise to fully bottom on the swivel base. 2) There are no chips resting on and no dings in the swivel base (which would otherwise hold part of the vise too high. 3) The T-bolts in the swivel base fit well, stick up through the ears of the main vise body, and have proper sized flanged nuts firmly tightened onto them to hold the vise body firmly onto the swivel base. 4) The swivel base is likewise chip free in its interface with the table, and firmly held down with proper T-studs and flanged nuts. 5) The swivel base should be checked for warpage before bolting it down. If it is warped, especially in such a way as to hold the sections between the hold-down ears clear of the table, it could indeed rock. 6) And -- which I should have put as the first item, the alignment keys in the bottom of the main vise body should be removed, and replaced on the bottom of the swivel base -- or just set aside. If they are left on the main vise body, they may hold the vise a bit clear of the swivel base and thus allow it to rock.

Or -- maybe one or more of the points above needed seeing to.

I've had good results with a swivel base on both a 4" Kurt clone and a 3" Kurt clone -- with rather heavy cuts in a horizontal spindle milling machine.

Enjoy, DoN.

Tom - My Kurt vice sits right one. There are lugs that screw in the bottoms and they fit the mill table slots. Tram to the jaws and you can move the vise off-and-on as long as the slots are true and you leave the lugs on.

Before I buy a rotating base - I'd look at one at MSC or some place - kurt site for a catalog. That might be missing a top plate that fits the vise.

I have a catalog, but it is on a disk among tons of other files.

Martin

Mart> I have a brand-spankin'-new Kurt D675 vise (no oopses yet) and I needed a way to

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They used to be a used equipment dealer and have downsized into general machine shop supply. They still have a good selection of used tooling and they have just about anything a production shop could need. Their prices are very good and they can get you anything you want. Their staff isn't the most knowledgeable but do OK.

Well, I assumed that the same factory cloned the vis and swivel, but that could be totally wrong. The vise was a VERY well-made piece, and I still use it, and am totally happy with it. I take heavy cuts from time to time, and have never had much trouble with it unless I'm taking cuts at the very limits of my Bridgeport. I did have a piece slide in the vise once, but that was after the head started to swing on the swivel, and it was "sucking" in the workpiece. I hit the off switch and dived for cover.

But, the swivel part must not have been made to the same standards, or maybe there was some swarf between vise and swivel, allowing it to rock. But, I've never put the swivel base back on.

Jon

Nah, I couldn't even TYPE right! The plate has fallen off, but it had some Chinese name on it.

I'll bet there may have been some chips there. the pin was binding in the vise body, so I had great difficulty separating the two, and they've never been together again.

The keys hang way out beyond the swivel, so they can't interfere.

This is the 6" model, and I wish I had a bigger one, but I wouldn't want to lift it. Anyway, now that I have CNC, I don't NEED the swivel anymore, so I don't care what the problem was.

Jon

Hmm ... if the pin was binding, perhaps the vise body did not set down far enough -- held up by the pin, and thus pulling up part of the swivel ring.

O.K.

[ ... ]

The horizontal is a small one a Nichols, and the swivel base for the 4" Kurt clone projects far enough off the edge of the table to limit the Y-travel. With the vise alone, there is no problem. There is only one T-slot in the table, so there is no option to mount the swivel base in a different T-slot to avoid the intereference.

The 3" clone fits with no interference, so it was what I used until I got a genuine Nichols milling vise which is closer to 5" grip and on a swivel, but with no interference. Also -- the swivel base has a vernier scale to allow angle setting to 15 minutes IIRC. The Kurt clone does not even zero properly. :-)

I do have a 6" genuine Kurt (those are more affordable than the smaller ones), but no swivel base for it, because that machine was a CNC machine, too.

Enjoy, DoN.