Re: Tango Papa

The local Wally World only has Testor's High Gloss Enamel (1814). IIRC, they used to carry two or three types of gloss coats. Is this the type that you have had success with?

I ruined the paint on a different rocket this afternoon with Krylon's Acrylic "Crystal Clear Gloss", 1301.

It didn't orangepeel, but it did etch the paint into a frosted glass texture. I'm used to humidity induced fogging that can be cured by re-application in low humidity conditions, but this will have to be sanded down. Needless to say, I am disappointed.

I got a question, is there any techniques for spray painting clears in a perpetually humid location (eg. Taiwan)? I mean I am sure some people paint cars here I wonder how they do it. It's so humid here it makes Houston, TX look like a desert (and I am not exaggerating)

JOOC Tai, why don't you track down some local "car painters" and ask them? That's what I'd do.

tah

Darn, I just had a look down in the workroom and you know what - I have cans of both #1814 (high gloss enamel) and #1261 (clear gloss lacquer), and I can't be certain which one I used - although I *thought* it was the lacquer.

BUT, I just oversprayed my newly applied TP decals with #1261 lacquer, and they crinkled (not a big problem, I only zapped a small 'test' area - phew).

What's really weird is that I then hit some NEW, UNCOATED t.p. decals with the same #1261 lacquer, and they didn't crinkle!!!

So, have I just discovered a new compatibility problem? Does spraying #1261 lacquer over itself (after several days of curing) create crinkling problems?

Shoot, I am going to have to go back to the drawing board on this.

I have some duplicolor paints and clears here that specifically note on the back of the can to spray the first coat and then to either recoat within one hour or to wait no less than 5 days. I one time did not follow those directions and recoated the next day and ended up with a crinkled mess and had to sand down and start over.

Rustoleum paint will do the same thing.

Joe Michel NAR# 82797

I've had mixed results with putting on the coat and immediately taking it indoors where the air conditioning creates a low humidity environment.

I'm not really recommending this, but if done correctly, you could paint indoors if you have an extra room that can be sealed off temporarily. The room needs a window that can be used to vent the fumes outside after you remove the finished model to another part of the house. Common sense precautions must be used. You can't open the window until you remove the model...the humidity will increase in the room almost immediately.

Even with sealing off the room and venting the fumes outside, some fumes will get into the rest of the house. It wouldn't be a bad idea to leave the house for an hour as soon as you finish.

If you live in apartments...well, good luck!

tim

I tried that at a Houston NARAM and it worked better than staying standing outdoors.

I found walking way to the inside (bathroom) worked best.

one thing about Taiwan houses is that almost none of them have central AC/heating (who needs heating here anyways?) so it is possible to have a room completely sealed off without any possibility of fumes getting to the rest of the house. and houses are expensive here... I currently live in a rented room (thats how most college students live here)

I doubt your hosts would want you painting in that room.

You might look for a hobby club of some type and ask them for help. They have to do their painting somewhere too. Model cars, trains, planes, etc., as heavily populated as Taiwan is, I'd bet there's some kind of club that could help you out. Good luck...

tim