Figure painting, logical sequence?

I have a few larger (1/6) scale vinyl figures now, and I'm wondering if there is a logical masking/painting sequence. I normally build aircraft, and that's pretty much a no-brainer, but on figures with everything exposed, where do I start/finish? FWIW, the latest aquisition is a Romulon figure, but I also have the Kothoga from the movie "Relic", and the StarWars Rancor/Gamorean guard. As an aside, I was told vinyl figures need a lacquer primer coat. I was under the impression that vinyl required acrylics only.

When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return. --Leonardo Da Vinci EAA # 729686 delete the word spam from email addy

Reply to
Loading thread data ...

The technique that works best for many modelers is to start at the skin and work outward. Paint the face, hands, and any other exposed skin first, then the innermost layer of clothing, and so forth. Badges, accessories, and things like that are painted last.

Reply to
Joe Jefferson

Vinyl does not need primer, unless you want to use enamel paints. Vinyl contains plasticizers that keep it flexible, and these prevent enamels from drying properly. A coat of primer will act as a barrier between the two so that the enamel will dry. Acrylic paints don't have this problem.

Reply to
Wayne C. Morris

Actually, I prefer just the *opposite*.

Naturally, one should pint the face first, because, if that is "screwed up", there is no need to go any further.

But, as far as clothing and equipment goes, I find it easier to paint things such as the belting, badges, etc., first. That way when painting the tunic/trousers/etc., you can more easily paint "up to" the raised edge of the belts/badge. For me, it is much easier this way, than vice-versa.

I also prefer to outline all this raised detail in a dark color, before blocking in the colors. This makes the shading stage much easier.

One neat trick, which I learned from the great Doug Cohen: If you paint in acrylics, do this afore-mentioned "pre-shading" using water colors (the $2.00 Grumbacher tube colors are perfect). When your wet acrylic hits the dried watercolor, the watercolor will be "re-juvinated", and you will get a bit of blending.

Reply to
Greg Heilers

Depending on the vinyl I think you'd wind up crazing it. Definitely a test first situation.

Pactra makes a series of R/C finishes for Lexan bodied R/C cars which work quite well on vinyl tires and such. You might want to give that a try if you really need a primer. Test first. hth

The Keeper (of too much crap!)

Reply to

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.