Figure painting, logical sequence?

The technique that works best for many modelers is to start at the skin and work outward. Paint the face, hands, and any other exposed skin first, then the innermost layer of clothing, and so forth. Badges, accessories, and things like that are painted last.

Vinyl does not need primer, unless you want to use enamel paints. Vinyl contains plasticizers that keep it flexible, and these prevent enamels from drying properly. A coat of primer will act as a barrier between the two so that the enamel will dry. Acrylic paints don't have this problem.

Actually, I prefer just the *opposite*.

Naturally, one should pint the face first, because, if that is "screwed up", there is no need to go any further.

But, as far as clothing and equipment goes, I find it easier to paint things such as the belting, badges, etc., first. That way when painting the tunic/trousers/etc., you can more easily paint "up to" the raised edge of the belts/badge. For me, it is much easier this way, than vice-versa.

I also prefer to outline all this raised detail in a dark color, before blocking in the colors. This makes the shading stage much easier.

One neat trick, which I learned from the great Doug Cohen: If you paint in acrylics, do this afore-mentioned "pre-shading" using water colors (the $2.00 Grumbacher tube colors are perfect). When your wet acrylic hits the dried watercolor, the watercolor will be "re-juvinated", and you will get a bit of blending.

Depending on the vinyl I think you'd wind up crazing it. Definitely a test first situation.

Pactra makes a series of R/C finishes for Lexan bodied R/C cars which work quite well on vinyl tires and such. You might want to give that a try if you really need a primer. Test first. hth

The Keeper (of too much crap!)