How to Thin Model Master Enamel for my Air-Brush

No worries - I've spent the last two decades using just this airbrush and just that paint line. It's easier than you think. Thin/reduce the paint as descibed on the MM paint thinner jar or the paint bottle itself. I like to overthin it by a little bit as well. I'm not used to filtering it at all - I used to do this for PollyS acrylics but haven't for any enamels or lacquers. Thin the paint to the consistency of milk. A good way to estimate this is to actually get a half-ounce of milk in the Badger jar, shake it and see how it clings to the sides of the jar. You want the paint to behave similarly.

What type of power will you use for the airbrush? Can you regulate it well? Do tell...

Again, no worries. We've all been there. What camo style are you applying? Hard-edged, soft-and-splotchy? Hard-edge will benefit from Tamiya masking tape (the best, in my opinion) but you can get perfectly acceptable results with 3M blue painter's tape. If you're going for soft-and-splotchy or squiggles, you'll need to get very acquainted with your 350 on paint delivery, air pressures, etc.

Give us a little more info on the air delivery system and we can go from there. Feel free to contact me offline if you wish. I love the

Frank Kranick

Yep. That's pretty much the ballpark rule for just about any sprayed finish. Humidity and room temp are important too when trying to get the right vescosity. Take for instance a real hot day and you over thin a little and the thinner evaporates out of the finish too fast, cuasing finish problems, orange peel etc.. It takes a little practice. Most models are fairly forgiving because of the small suface areas.

B.H.