I think I used the last of my Squadron putty. Never gave a smooth
surface. the Tamiya putty goes on smooth and does not need much work
except for filing/sanding.
I'm gonna quit Squadron unless someone has a tip to get the stuff to
go on smoother and dry with a better finish..
Which Squadron? I had lousy luck with green, but in my experience
squadron white is almost as good as tamiya. The main thing to me is
just that tamiya putty is so much pricier and harder to find in my
same as eyeball, the "green stuff" was a pain. IIRC, the last time I
used it it reacted with the plastic, which softened and never seemed
to set back up. don't know if was the plastic itself or too much
solvent in the putty.
I've never been able to get Squadron white to stick - it feathers nice
enough, but it gets brittle, chips and flakes...I think I tried one tube
of it - used a small amount on a couple models and threw the rest in the
I'd still be using red Dr. Microtools if I could still get it...Tamiya
putty is my one and only now.
I never had a problem with squadron white sticking, but like "Old
school" the green melted a few parts, but that was over 20 years ago.
Sometimes I also use model master red, which is similar to the stuff
you get at auto parts stores. And has anyone ever gotten those little
gray testors tubes to work? They come out hard, crumbling, and
wouldn't stick if I put it on under duct tape...
The Testors Model Master red is really similar to Dr. Microtools, but
the first tube I got was separated in the tube, and I couldn't get it to
mix up enough so I could actually use it...just oily green/red goo out
of the tube. So I abandoned it, but I should try it again sometime.
Ditto your experience on the gray tube - I quit that stuff when I was
still a teen...
I use automotive spot putty. At least that is what us oldtimers call
it. It is now called glazing putty. It does shrink a bit, but that
merely means several coats. It is cheap in terms of pounds per dollar,
though you have to buy it in pretty large tubes these days 'cause not
many folks do their own body repairs, so the tubes are meant for shops.
You have to be careful about putting cap back on promptly, as you don't
want a fifteen dollar tube to dry out (had that happen once).
I usually use it over primer, but it will work okay on bare plastic.
I have found tamiya putty, i can't remember which (fine/coarse/etc but I
can look when I get home tonight) to harden with a smooth/glossy/shiney
finish compared to squadron white and bondo (the red car stuff). But,
they all have their uses for me.
John McGrail wrote in
Squadron Green ruined a model for me. I used it to fix weight in place and it
melted the plasric. I use Tamiya now, I've actully dumped some in a bottle
with Testors liquid glue to thin it out. Works pretty good.
I did something similar once, back when I was a wee lad. I had an A-20
(I forget by whom) with the clear nose, and wanted to do a solid nose
version. I had the bright idea of filling the nose with squadron
green. All at once. The next day I had a rubbery nose and a ruined
I also use tamiya putty, and thin it with liquid styrene cement when
needed. Another option for you all: Mr. Surfacer, in various grits.
You can brush it on, and thin it with oil paint. Sands nice too.
Has anyone found a tube putty that betters Milliput ?...for those times when
sheer convenience of a quick cap removal and squirt are required for speed.
For those in the UK, and the company may sell it abroad, there is, if you
dont mind mixing equal portions of each stick together, as opposed to the
convenience of undoing a cap and squirting filler out, a truly excellent
filler putty called Milliput.
UK modellers have been aware of this for many years. You wont get better
regards sanding down to super feather edge, it wont flake, or shrink, or
melt styrene, can be smoothed into place with water and that ability makes
it truly ace to work with, sets under water, setting time can be accelerated
with heat (not too hot so that it melts the kit ! )...and its available in
super fine white, or standard yellow grey or terracotta for pots etc. Can be
sanded, drilled , tapped, milled , sawn, scribed etc. Worked like a putty,
have surface scribed and patterned when setting, rolled into sheets, or
formed into sculptures, sets rock solid whether its a minute piece or a
massive lump. Just mix it thoroughly, I press the two coloured lumps
together, fold in half, press, fold in half, press etc, many times. Working
time for the standard is about 45 mins, for the white, 20 mins and its too
stiff to then work with. Use superfine for extreme fine grain and speed of
set. Overnight cure and its like rock, shatters like a stone if hit with
hammer, so that should tell you its strength, sure aint crumbly stuff.
Odourless. Sticks to degreased styrene like superglue, sticks to the metal
spatula well also, so clean up quick. especially fingers, wear latex gloves
to avoid dealing with puttied fingers ! Roll it into fine sausage shape for
laying into fisures. Press mold it into shapes. Roll it into very small
balls for knobs etc. Form panel lines in it before its fully set or scribe
it afterwards. Manipulate like modelling clay after mixed. Standard grey or
superfine white packets say rock hard in 3 hrs room temperature.
Leading UK model shops stock it.
The Milliput Co, Unit 8, The Marian, Dolgellau, Mid Wales LL40 1UU
tel 01341 422562
Loads of domestic uses, Google it !