Should be red and black.
Duhhh!
Regards, John.
Should be red and black.
Duhhh!
Regards, John.
Sorry, these were non sequetur statements should have been a gap !
I will admit theres a tendancy for hornby locos to require contacts re-sited - ie push in a bit. Have had to do it to odd bachmann one as well - but got lots less of them. My new bachmann Fairburn tank runs now have bent one of drain pipes up a bit. Noticed wheel B2B varies considerably in drivers from front to back - explains why it sounds a bit heavy bouncing through points. Perhaps the bounce cleans the track so thats why they seem to need fewer pickups ?
Cheers, Simon
Always worth while doing a quick check that pickups clean esp paint free and do touch where they should.
Cheers, Simon
"simon" wrote
Agreed absolutely, but the first time I attempted to adjust the pick-ups (on a Black 5 from memory) I wanted ease of access to allow me to bend three (of six) into more reliable contact with the back of the wheel, and when I removed the keeper plate the pick-ups from both sides of the chassis just fell away. They're not 'fixed' in the accepted sense, but rely on the keeper plate to hold them in position against a brass shim which has the wires attached which run to the motor.
I was a bugger of a job to position to position and refit the two sets of pick-ups and hold the whole shooting match in place whilst the keeper plate was screwed into position. Further adjustment is practically impossible. Not a very clever design in my opinion, and it's possible that those in the factory who have to assemble this rig, may not get the positioning spot on with consequent indifferent running until the tender is attached.
John.
Was wondering why you removed the keeper plate, have never done that cos of pickups. When have been thoroughly fed up with the 6 handed job of putting it back have resorted to the thin tape or even a tiny spot of super glue.
CHeers, Simon
"simon" wrote
It's difficult to accurately 'bend' a wiper pick-up when in situ behind a wheel. My intention was to move it away from the wheel, adjust it and then reposition - a system I've used for donkey's years, and one I still use occasionally with Bachmann locos.
Yup, but not so easy with Hornby pick-ups as both are effective insulators, and in this scenario electrical continuity relies on the physical contact between pick-up and the small shim under the keeper plate.
John.
Why would you need *four* wires for tender pickup?
MBQ
It's very unlikely you'll get anything like 12 on a mass-produced rigid chassis RTR loco and tender.
MBQ
See above.
You're assuming there is no flex in the track, and no play in the wheel bearings. A wheel that does not have its tread on the rail may still make contact through the flange, espcially on a curve. Coupled driving wheels are also electrically connected by the coupling rods.
Not if they are insulated. have to be carefull with some wheel makes otherwise you get shorts via coupling rods.
Dont forget wheels are connected via coupling rods to adjacent wheel but also via a solid axle to their partner. So flex and play can lower one side but raise the other. Suspect its a 3 dimensional thingy. Thats why said you need a perfect fit not perfectly flat track and wheels.
Cheers, Simon
Appreciate thats the case with the older locos with less flexible pickups and your method is the perfect one. Butt modern ones with phos..bronze tend to be better sprung with a knob near the end. Find they can be pressed closer to the wheel and with the wheel at its outermost position it is less critical that they be perfect. Tis very important to clean that knob though.
Cheers, Simon
Yes, it's very important to keep your knob clean.
As Lister would say.... "Smeghead".
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