I wanted to get this to you before you left for work. IF, you'll be
Assuming you still have the Chick vise at your shop - Here are the
checks I would preform.
Put a block in the upper part of the Chick vise jaws on tall parallels
like "Zymrgy" suggested and clamp it strongly, do a quickie (Fail-Pass)
check by trying to insert a .001-.0015 feeler gauge under the surface
of the movable jaw support and the base. Then try to put the feeler
gauge behind the lower part of the solid jaw & jaw support. Next try
to put it under the solid jaw support and the base. If the feeler
gauge goes into any of these areas, that's an immediate FAIL.
On to the indicator tests. You should put your indicator on both the
solid jaw support AND the movable jaw support while clamping to see IF
or HOW MUCH they lift vertically. Move the indicator across the
movable jaw support. again before and after clamping to make sure it's
not lifting on just one side. Then check behind the solid jaw to see
how much it moves in Y under clamping pressure. You can put your
indicator on the very back of the solid jaw support as a double check
to see if it's the jaw support or the jaw itself that's tilting. The
results of those tests should tell you if the Chick is still worth
I personally think the Chick vise would be a poor investment compared
to the 3600V Kurt, because of all the points I brought up before. The
checks above will confirm that assessment if it fails those tests.
As far as the Kurt 3600 series goes, be advised that it only has a jaw
opening of 6". If you need more, you'll have to look at a different
model. But if you use the Chick spacers to screw your Talon-Grip jaws
to, you'll use up about 1 1/2" of the extra 2" opening of the Chick
Here a 3610V, which is a reverse vise. Meaning the solid jaw is
toward you - on the handle side. It still only has a 6" opening though.
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